The value and production process of Italian Vegetable-tanned Leather
What is Vegetable-tanned Leather
Vegetable tanned leather refers to the tannage, or method of tanning the cowhide into leather. It’s called “vegetable” because of the natural materials used in the tanning process like tree bark.
Since vegetable tanning is a natural process, it’s also eco-friendly. Vegetable tanning or veg tan as it’s sometimes called, is one of the oldest methods of tanning known to man. It has literally been around for centuries.
The Process of Vegetable Tanning
Step 1: Pre Tanning
First, the hides have to be prepped. So they spend a couple days rehydrating the hides and removing the hair. The whole hide is cut into two pieces called sides.
Step 2: Tanning
The split hides are then put into large vats filled with natural tannins. Some of these natural tannins include bark of the Mimosa and Quebracho trees. The hides spend a couple of weeks soaking in this tanning liquor and must be frequently tended to in order to ensure full absorption. The hides are then removed, excess moisture is taken out and they are shaved to the desired thickness (from the backside).
For vegetable tanned leather that isn’t dyed, this is nearing the end of the road. That type of veg tan leather has a pale almost pinkish color to it. But the veg tan leather we use if further dyed to create the rich color and character that makes our leather so unique.
Step 3: Dyeing, Fat Liquoring, Drying
The hides are then fat liquored with conditioning oils and waxes. Leather is then hot stuffed, which is a special process that literally stuffs the leather hide to its core with waxes and tallows that give it a rich color and make it more durable.
After that, the hides are dried and staked. Staking is a process that softens up the leather just a bit.
Step 4: Finishing the Leather
In this stage, the hides are sprayed another time with waxes and a sealant for protection. They are then ironed and graded.
The entire process is very time and labor intensive, taking about six weeks to complete. This is significantly longer than chrome-tanned leather, which is the most common tanning method
Therefore, the leather products by Simple Union are made of the high quality vegetable tanned leather. Our leather is vegetable tanned, which means it undergoes a specific tanning process that very few bags on the mass-market today use. It’s the oldest form of leather tanning and has been around for centuries. It is also the most natural and environmentally friendly. Plus, the leather smells amazing. Less than 10% of the world's leather is tanned this way.
The leathers we using are from the Italian vegetable tanned leather association Badalassi, Minerva box and Yankee from U.S.A. The raw hides are tanned using traditional methods, using animal fats and vegetable tannins without addition of any synthetic agents, focussing on 100% nature-friendly materials. The Minerva box leather is naturally wrinkled, and it is one of the best Italian leathers. The Italian vegetable tanned leather is famous for its strict monitoring of the tanners of the Italian Leather Association, controlling the production process of vegetable tannins, promoting environmental protection and avoiding harm to the human body and the environment. Our handcraft knowledge and technology that guarantee high quality of our products in full respect of the environment.
細說意大利植鞣皮革的價值與製作過程
植鞣皮革是什麼
植鞣皮革是一種處理原皮的工藝名稱。從動物身上取下未經加工處理的皮則稱為生皮或原皮。未經處理的生皮會腐爛，經過工藝處理後的原皮則稱為革。用植物中萃取出的植物鞣劑（丹寧酸液、植物多酚等多元酚化合物）鞣製出來的頭層皮則稱為植鞣革。所以植鞣革是植物鞣料鞣製的皮革，也有人稱為樹膏皮，或寫成了樹糕皮。是人類已知的最古老的鞣製方法之一。它已經存在了幾個世紀。
一、環保性：
用栲膠作為主要鞣劑鞣製出來的植鞣皮革，只含純天然動植物成分，不再含有其他鞣製工藝製成的皮革含有的重金屬、苯、酚等芳香等有害成分。具有真正意義上的環保特性。
二、自然性：
植鞣皮鞣製完成以後，不進行塗飾。所以，皮體表面保留皮革 本身的粒面和光澤，自然古樸。其粒面保留了皮革的自然紋路。其光澤柔和通透，隨着使用，其亮度會更加柔和透亮。
三、穿着性：
由於製革工藝水平的提高，植鞣皮也可以做出理想的手感和優越的穿着性。其手感厚實，真皮感強。植鞣皮透氣、 吸濕性好，使用者穿着時感覺舒適。
植鞣皮革的製作過程
Step 1: 預備過程
首先，必須準備生皮。因此，工匠需花了幾天時間為皮革補充水分並去除皮毛，整個皮革被切成兩塊稱為邊。
Step 2: 製革過程
然後將分開的皮革放入裝滿天然單寧酸液（植物鞣劑）的大桶中。皮革在這種液體中浸泡幾星期，以確保完全吸收。然後除去生皮，取出多餘的水分並將它們刮削至所需的厚度（從背面）。
Step 3: 染色，加脂，乾燥
將生皮用調製的油和蠟加脂。皮革經過熱灌裝，將皮革皮革與蠟和牛脂完全融合在一起，賦予其豐富的色彩，使其更耐用之後，將生皮乾燥並放置，使皮革稍微柔軟。
Step 4: 完成植鞣皮革
在這個階段，皮革再次用蠟和密封劑噴塗以保護。 然後對它們進行熨燙和分級。整個過程耗費大量時間和勞動力，大約需要六週時間才能完成。這比最常見的鞣製方法鉻鞣革長得多。世界上不到10％的皮革以這種植鞣方式製革。
因此 Simple Union 製作的皮革製品，採用的是最高品質的植物鞣製，強調產品的品質，柔韌性，舒適與耐用。採用意大利植鞣革協會Badalassi ,Minerva box以及Yankee，生皮採用傳統方法鞣製，使用動物脂肪和植物單寧，不添加任何合成劑，專注於100％天然材料。皮革呈自然摔紋，全植鞣透染、Minerva box是意大利上乘皮料之一。意大利製之植鞣革之所以聞名於世，全因意大利皮革公會對旗下製革商嚴密監控，控制植鞣的製作過程，提倡環保，避免對人體及環境有害 ; 以保存傳統的植鞣製作，並帶出高質素的皮革素材。我們的手工藝知識和技術，確保我們的產品在尊重環境的同時，保證高品質。
短片來源: 意大利公會 Vera Pelle Italiana Conciata al Vegetale - Consorzio
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